Fruit of love

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Photo by Douglas Levere

At the end of an intimate dinner for two, there’s nothing better than an exquisite little dessert.

Well, nothing on a plate, anyway.

Here’s a luxurious twist on the standard fruit and cheese platter, with a touch of magic.

The magic is caramel, ordinary sugar transformed into glistening, lovely lava by heat and patience. You poach pear halves in the caramel, and as the fruit’s juice seeps into the toasted sugar, the pear caramel gains luscious depth.

It was conceived by pastry chef Luci Levere, the former dessert diva of three-star Manhattan restaurant Town, run by celeb chef Geoffrey Zakarian. (The photo above is by her husband, professional photographer Douglas Levere, and we hope that one day more of their contributions will raise the standards around here.)

If you’ve never worked with caramel before, be aware that molten sugar burns easily. Stir carefully, keep flammable house pets away from the stove, and resist at all costs the impulse to taste caramel from the pan. This would not be the night to blister your tongue, after all.

A bit of fancy cheese is called for

I prefer Oregonzola, a Gorgonzola-style cheese from Oregon’s Rogue Creamery that I found at Wegman’s, but you could substitute other blue-style cheeses. Look for a Gorgonzola dolce, a young type of the cheese, less sharp than the aged version.

Red pears are usually available

Usually red pears are available, but I suppose other types would work. I’ve thought to experiment with firm peaches - one time when I don’t have a dinner companion waiting.

4 ounces Oregonzola, Gorgonzola dolce or Maytag blue
2 ripe pears, peeled, halved and cored
1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup heavy cream

Place a heavy-bottomed pan, big enough to hold the pear halves, over medium-low heat. Add the sugar, shaking it occasionally, and resisting the temptation to turn the heat up in frustration. It will start to clump, then begin turning to caramel.

Once the sugar turns to amber liquid with no lumps, 20 to 25 minutes, add cream, which will sputter. Add butter. Stir to evenly incorporate, then increase heat to medium and place the pear halves flat side down in the pan. Once the caramel starts simmering, about 5 minutes, start spooning caramel over pears for about 10 minutes. The volume of liquid will increase as pears give off juice. Solidified caramel will turn liquid again once poked back into the heat.

Once the pears are tender, 10 to 15 minutes depending on ripeness, take pan off heat. Let cool for 10 minutes. Place a ping-pong-ball-sized chunk of room-temperature Oregonzola inside, and serve adorned with pear caramel.

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