A lunch 15 years in the making: Stone Road Grille

Let the sun shine in: Cured bison so thin it almost dissolves on your tongue.
On Aug. 24, 1992, Hurricane Andrew crushed Miami, driving millions inland to escape killer winds and flooding.
Two weeks later, another Andrew-related catastrophe unfolded: Kathy Lisborg, the Fawn of Fayetteville, married Andrew Galarneau, in a small North Tonawanda church. Before [...]

Exploiting our fruit: Exploring clafoutis

There wasn’t any almond spice topping on this version, but it disappeared quickly just the same.
In today’s Buffalo News, I have a story sharing the results of my experience with clafoutis. It’s basically a big, rich baked pancake centered around fruit that’s dead ripe.
With the help of friend and dessert guru Luci Levere, [...]

A little special: Lagniappe

The pork chops were napped in a sweet sauce that reminded me of brandy and molasses.
After hearing about it for months, I finally made it to Lagniappe on Allen Street with my friend Matt.
My colleague from New Orleans had been telling me about Lagniappe for a while. He lives nearby and has enjoyed the [...]

Exploring Gin Gin’s menu

That might not look tasty, but it was pretty good ma po tofu.
There’s something slightly creepy about heading for a restaurant that’s the only place left open in a huge mothballed shopping center, but the possibility of decent Chinese food makes a weak man strong.
We met for lunch at Gin Gin, fellow food writer [...]

While you were eating: News smorgasbord

Act now, limited time offer: Niagara County peaches are going fast
The peaches are ending their run in the next week or two, and really, you ought to dive in. It was $18 for a half-bushel of freestones at the North Tonawanda Farmers Market Saturday morning, and the investment in ecstasy will keep on [...]

Sweet little things: Grape tomato confit

“If I’m actually going to peel 100 tiny tomatoes, it would have to be so worth it.” Well, guess what?
Today’s Buffalo News has the first of a series of food columns I’ve been asked to write. Called “Elements,” they’re supposed to be small, simple introductions to ingredients, spices, herbs or anything else that [...]

Seize the bounty: Farmers’ markets

All this for $10 – even with the questionable splurge of a $2.50 bag of homemade pork cracklings.
Maybe you’ve been meaning to get to that farmer’s market, but something keeps getting in the way on Saturday mornings.
Well, it’s time to get greedy for the good stuff. That’s the local fruits and vegetables that [...]

Ribfest favorites: Pulled pork

Get some white bread and pickles, because the pork is done.
Traditional barbecue has always aimed to take gnarly, ill-favored cuts of meat and make them special.
Pulled pork is no different. Starting with pork butts – which, despite the name, come from the shoulder of the pig – a day’s work turns them into [...]

Party favorites: Plum kuchen

A lovely assortment of fresh fruit, and a lovely fruit-eater.
We host a party on Labor Day weekend that features barbecue, chicken souvlaki and the efforts of family and friends. Essentially, we provide meat and paper plates, and ask everyone to muster up their favorite side dish, salad or sweet.
Every year, I’m impressed by [...]

A WNY success: Woo Chon Korea House

Pork grilling, a handful of tastiness, a shot of soju waiting to go: Still life with Korean barbecue.
For all the bellyaching I do about cuisines that aren’t well represented in Western New York restaurants, it’s only fair that I highlight the delights as well.
If you like your flavors bold and appreciate grilled meat, [...]