Entries from May 2008

May 11, 2008

Comfort me with caramel: Chicken kho

A few minutes and a splash of caramel sauce delivers a savory supper.
One of my favorite ripoffs of Vietnamese home cooking is a technique called kho. It’s comfort food, like an Irish lamb stew of a French coq au vin. In kho, proteins like chicken, tofu or catfish are stewed in a mixture of caramel [...]

May 5, 2008

Chopsticks at dawn: Ming Cafe, Buffalo

The pork dumplings were tender-skinned and flavored with chives.
Perhaps it is the lack of high-quality Chinese dining options in Western New York that makes the arguments over Chinese food so vehement. My homey favorite is a slop pit to you. What you hold forth as the best lo mein in these parts, I will castigate [...]