Entries Tagged as ‘meat’

July 22, 2008

Red sauce done right: Panaro’s, Buffalo

Even the cannoli was done right, filled with sweetened ricotta only after ordering.
Braciole is a special-occasion dish in Italian-American households, the sort of dinner centerpiece you might see on a birthday or anniversary. That’s partly because of the amount of kitchen labor it requires.
Recipes usually call for pounding out beef round or a similar [...]

July 13, 2008

Finger food fiesta: Taste of Buffalo 2008

A bit too much roll, but Fiamma’s Tenderloin Slider with herbed ricotta, sun-dried tomatoes and arugula was a great introduction from a first-time server.
Kevin Purdy is an associate editor at Lifehacker and freelance writer.
For 363 days of each year, Buffalo’s street food options–the kind of stuff you can eat while walking, talking, or, for the [...]

July 10, 2008

Hit me with your chicken stick: Chicken sate, Indonesian style

Savory glaze, exotic spicing, but no spicy-ness to speak of.
Turns out that chicken sate I’d gotten to know on Thai menus is only one of a sate galaxy. Across Asia, people are marinating chicken with whatever’s handy and throwing it on a fire.

Here’s a simple but satisfying entrant from Indonesia, distinguished by its use of [...]

June 16, 2008

The prince of pork returns: Vargas, Buffalo

Vargas doesn’t have his name on the restaurant yet, but his sign promises his entire menu.
It’s not easy to explain the allure of Senor Vargas to anyone who hasn’t been hankering for something a little different at lunch in downtown Buffalo.
Let’s say you have $5 and an hour for lunch. You could line up behind [...]

May 22, 2008

A bite of Cuba: La Cocina Criolla, Buffalo

The right fixins, encased in crunchy pressed bread. At long last, the Cubano done right.
Opening up a Puerto Rican restaurant on Niagara Street across from Niagara Cafe, the longstanding veteran of the area, must take a lot of nerve.
The last place to open at 544 Niagara St., El Sugar Bowl, lasted a year or two. [...]

May 11, 2008

Comfort me with caramel: Chicken kho

A few minutes and a splash of caramel sauce delivers a savory supper.
One of my favorite ripoffs of Vietnamese home cooking is a technique called kho. It’s comfort food, like an Irish lamb stew of a French coq au vin. In kho, proteins like chicken, tofu or catfish are stewed in a mixture of caramel [...]

April 24, 2008

Bowl of fail: KFC’s Famous Bowl

KFC’s Famous Bowl,  by Flickr user cbg_rocketfever.

Normally, my relationship with fast-food drive-thru cuisine is pretty healthy.
I don’t eat it.
Mostly. Except for succumbing occasionally to a particularly potent advertising campaign, like that thing Wendy’s has that tops burgers with cheese sauce, bacon and jalapenos. I can’t be the only guy that hears myself talking in Homer [...]

March 20, 2008

Taylor made: Pork roll

Browning the edges makes it crispy.
Before I met my husband, he says he had never eaten scrapple, a porcine delight that crops up in East Coast diners everywhere. Nor had he tried pork roll, a salty, savory log of coarsely ground pork shoulder that’s been around since the late 19th century.
I married him anyway.
Pork roll, [...]

March 18, 2008

It is truly meat: Steve’s Pig & Ox Roast, Lackawanna

The roast pork sandwich was the pick of the litter, if you ask me.
I wasn’t looking for anything fancy when I ended up at Steve’s (951 Ridge Road, Lackawanna, 824-8601).
Good thing, too. Because the place specializes in sliced meat on rolls, period. No sauces, no spices to mention, less you count the caraway seeds on [...]

February 8, 2008

Land of plenty: Grand Buffet, Amherst

One of three ranks of steam tables now occupying what used to be the Funny Bone. Insert punchline here.
Staggering out of a Chinese buffet, hoping you can get home before the insulin shock renders you too logy to drive, you tend to get philosophical, like a man on Death Row.
“You get what you pay for.” [...]